When searching for cosmetic products, I assume you would head to your favorite drug store, go to aisle 7(it’s usually on aisle 7) and pick up a moisturizer that you think would fit right? 297 other people would also pick up the exact moisturizer with the same thought “it would probably fit”.
But the real question is “does one size really fit all (in skincare)?”
I’m sure you have all felt a little disappointed when a product that worked perfectly for your friend didn’t work for you. It hurts doesn’t it?
A classic example would be my article on Neutrogena’s best-selling MicroClear technology not working optimally on your skin.
What do we attribute 60% of these variations to?
A complex molecule which contains all the information you’ll ever need in a living organism, DNA; Deoxyribonucleic acid (I’m going to be your biology teacher today, you are welcome.)
Genetic predispositions actually accounts for 60% of the variations in skincare, 40% can be attributed to environmental factors and other lifestyle choices; even if DNA is just a piece in the puzzle, it could just be the missing piece.
Genetically modified cosmetics are actually now a buzz in the industry and I think it’s great that there’s innovation in the beauty industry (even though, I have heard some people refer to it as “snake oil with a digital footprint” which I think majorly is due to the gap in research, which of course can be bridged with the availability of sufficient and accurate data.)
The concept of consumer DNA testing was pioneered by 23andme after which, companies like GeneU, SkinDNA, SkinShift, Olay amongst others now provide DNA skin analysis in order to provide you with cosmetics that are tailored perfectly to your skin. (did you notice that these aren’t African companies?)
DNA analysis requires data for research in order to put out an algorithm to provide answers based on the research carried out.
But the real tea though is that, is there sufficient data in Africa to make that call?
Global research and innovation on genetics has left Africa in the stone age even though, the population in Africa harbors the most varied genetic profile on earth; which basically means that there are thousands of genetic variations in Africa. The potential of this variation has been grossly overlooked as only 2% of genetic research focuses on Africans.
This means that most of the studies carried out to produce genetically modified cosmetics have only used about 2% of African data which they currently have; let’s even imagine they use all of the 2%, we would be right to say that approximately 98% of cosmetic products powered by research and innovation have not been made to cater to African skin. Overlooking the genetic diversity of Africans would limit the amount of products that would function optimally on African skin.
Scientists estimate that we have about 20,000-25,000 different genes and around 1,500 of those genes impact our skin health, which is why you can’t eliminate the genetic factor in this case. DNA tests analyze how your genetics influence skin characteristics, such as hydration, elasticity, antioxidant capacity and sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, which play a key role in the skin aging process.
Many of the challenges we face when it comes to our skin is the result of a genetic predisposition (thanks Mom and Dad, uugh).
In essence, your DNA may have more impact than any product available on a counter top. Everything from stretch marks and varicose veins to discoloration and skin sagging are related to our genetic makeup. This explains why some people start seeing wrinkles, acne, and skin discoloration in their 20s while others may not experience skin troubles until later in life or even never. It also explains why a product that works for Amy may not work for Susan or Bill or Arnold.
Get it?
So to summarize and answer the main question – Does one size really fit all?
No, Cosmetics are made to fit different skin types based on the formulation and research, as usual, would play a major role in the formulation of these products.
To end this, adequate data must be available to power research and innovation in order to formulate products that would function optimally on African Skin as there is so much potential for genetically engineered cosmetics in Africa.
If you are of African descent, note that only about 2% of your genetic data has been made available for this research so most products may not give you optimal satisfaction when you use them, you would inevitably be playing a game of Russian Roulettes.
Do not disregard the fact that environmental and lifestyle factors also affect skin health, good skin is as much nurture as it is nature. Put on sunscreen, wash your face, curate a good skincare routine; it sure does count for something. 40% is a whole lot.
Love x Light
Your friendly neighborhood cosmetic chemist,
Mae
Be sure to let me know your opinions about this in the comment section below.
The Chemist. 